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When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.